I remember the first time I made a scented candle: the glue-gun wobble, the tiny oil stain on my favorite table, and that little rush when the flame finally burned steady.
After dozens (okay, hundreds) of melts, tests, and candles given as gifts, I’ve got a reliable method that’s forgiving, efficient, and — honestly — a lot of fun.
This guide is written like I’d tell a friend over coffee: I’ll walk you through what I do step-by-step, give you specific ratios and temperatures I use, explain why those choices matter (so you can experiment confidently), and include tips I learned the hard way.
I also reveal my SECRET wax blend that took my over 6 months to MASTER.
PLEASE FOLLOW ALL THE STEPS IN ORDER TO MAKE SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL BUT ALSO SAFE.
Quick overview — what you’ll need
(If you already have some experience, skim — but don’t skip the safety bullets.)
Essentials I keep on my work table:
- Wax: soy wax flakes, paraffin pellets, or a coconut-soy blend (more on choosing below).
- Fragrance oils (specifically for candles) or essential oils rated for candle use.
- Wicks (pre-tabbed with centering stickers or metal bases) in various sizes.
- A double boiler or dedicated melting pot; I use an electric dye pot for larger batches.
- A digital thermometer (±1 °C accuracy is nice).
- Heat-resistant pouring pitcher (metal or glass).
- Containers: glass jars, tins, or molds.
- Wick centering tool or chopsticks (simple and cheap).
- Scale (to measure wax and fragrance precisely).
- Labels, gloves, and a respirator mask if you’re working with strong fragrance concentrates.
Safety essentials:
- Fire extinguisher (class B recommended) near your workspace.
- Good ventilation — I open a window when pouring strong fragrances.
- Never leave melting wax unattended.
Choosing your wax (the foundation)
The wax you pick changes how your candle looks, how long it burns, how well it holds fragrance, and how it treats the wick.
What I use most and why:
- Soy wax (vegetable) — great for beginners. It’s renewable, burns cooler (so less soot), and generally holds fragrance well for container candles. It tends to have a lower melt point (around 45–60 °C), so it makes a soft, creamy melt pool.
- Paraffin wax — traditional choice. It holds very high fragrance loads and produces strong scent throw (how far the scent travels), but it can produce more soot and is petroleum-based.
- Coconut-soy blends — my personal favorite for jars: they combine a clean burn with good scent throw and a smooth finish.
- Beeswax — expensive and naturally scented (honey notes). Excellent for long burns and near-smokeless performance, but not ideal if you want to add heavy fragrances.
If you want to sell candles, do test batches of the exact wax blend you choose — small changes in wax formulation affect wick sizing and fragrance load.
Keep in mind. Soy wax (which I bet you wanna choose) will not burn as good as a parafin wax because you know, it’s soy.
Now, I will do something that probably I shouldn’t but who cares life is short.
Here is my blend that took me over 400 tests to make and it is flawless. It is 80% Soy + coconut (it is ready-made) + 20% parafin. This blend fixes ALL the problems that the 100% natural candles have (frosting, holes, ugly top surface, uneven burn and many more).
Fragrance and essential oils — what to know
Fragrance oil vs essential oil:
- Fragrance oils are formulated for candles: they’re created to withstand container heat, are consistent, and often give stronger throw.
- Essential oils are natural but vary batch to batch, and some don’t tolerate the heat of burning well (they can accelerate wick mushrooming or not vaporize cleanly).
Two key numbers I always check:
- Flash point — the temperature at which the oil gives off enough vapor to ignite. Never exceed the safe handling temperature when mixing.
- Fragrance load (phr or %) — how much fragrance the wax can hold. A typical range I use:
- Soy: 6–10% (by weight)
- Paraffin: up to 12–15%
- Blends: around 8–12%
My go-to fragrance-mixing rule (works like a charm): start at 6% fragrance load for initial tests (safer and less likely to sweat), then push to 8% if the scent is too weak, and test a batch at 10% only if both the wax manufacturer and your small burn tests say it’s stable.
Practical tip: weigh everything. If you plan to make a 500 g candle and you want 8% fragrance, that’s 500 × 0.08 = 40 g fragrance oil. Use a scale, not tablespoons.
Wicks: tiny but critical
Wick selection is the single most common reason candles behave badly (tunneling, soot, small melt pool). Wick choice depends on:
- Wax type
- Container diameter
- Fragrance load (more oil often needs a bigger wick)
- Additives (hidden additives can raise melt pool depth)
Common wick types:
- Cotton flat braid (LD, CD sizes) — common for soy and blends.
- Wood wicks — pretty crackle and a wide, even melt pool, but they need extra testing for fragrance load.
- Core wicks (cotton with paper or zinc core) — stiffer, good for bigger containers.
My rule of thumb when testing sizing: make a small candle with the wick you think will work, then run a burn test for 2–3 hours.
Check the melt pool reaches the edge in the first full burn cycle (avoid “tunneling”). If the pool is too small, move up one wick size; if it smokes or has a too-large flame, step down.
Wick tip: always trim the wick to ~1/4 inch (6–7 mm) before lighting — that keeps soot down and gives a steady flame.
Equipment & setup — the way I arrange the table
I set up a dedicated “candle corner”:
- Heat-resistant mat.
- Scale and thermometer within reach.
- Prepped containers lined up (wicks attached).
- Melting pot on a stove or electric hot plate.
- Clean cloths and labels ready.
For small batches, I use a double boiler: the indirect heat prevents scorching. For larger batches, I use an electric wax melter/dye pot with a temperature controller.
Pro tip: label a batch immediately with wax type, fragrance, % load, wick size, melt temp, and date. You’ll thank yourself during troubleshooting.
Step-by-step: the method I use (simple 500 g jar example)
This is a full walk-through for one 500 g jar (adjust quantities for batch or smaller candles):
1. Prep
- Attach wick to jar bottom (wick sticker + a dab of hot glue if needed).
- Center the untrimmed wick with a centering tool or clothespin.
2. Measure
- Weigh 450 g wax (for a 500 g finished weight I account for some fragrance).
- Weigh fragrance for 8% load → 500 g × 0.08 = 40 g.
3. Melt
- Slowly melt the wax in a double boiler to the recommended pour temperature for your wax (common ranges):
- Soy blend or Soy: ~85-90 °C to melt fully, then cool slightly before adding fragrance.
- Paraffin: ~75–85 °C.
- Stir gently and consistently.
4. Cool & add fragrance
- Reduce heat. Bring wax down to the fragrance addition temperature (often 65-70 °C for soy; always follow the wax manufacturer’s guidance).
- Add fragrance oil (40 g) and stir gently for 1 minute to ensure even distribution. I count — a steady 80-100 rotations at medium speed so that you don’t form air bubbles.
5. Pour
- Pour at the recommended temperature (for soy: often 60–65 °C). Pour slowly and steadily into the jar.
- Leave a 1 cm headspace on the top.
6. Secure wick and cure
- Keep wick centered. Let candles cool undisturbed for at least 12–24 hours at room temperature. I avoid moving them.
- Once set, trim wick to ~6–7 mm.
7. Cure time
- I wait 3–7 days before the first burn for soy candles (this gives the fragrance time to bind to the wax and improves cold/hot throw). Some makers cure up to 2 weeks for maximum strength — but I do a 3-day minimum test.
Below, there is an example. Not perfect but you will get an idea. (Follow the steps and the specific numbers and blends I talked about for best results).
Curing, testing, and burn testing — the science behind it
“Curing” is where the liquid fragrance molecules become evenly dispersed in the solidified wax matrix. It affects both cold throw (smell when unlit) and hot throw (smell when burning). A proper cure stabilizes scent molecules and reduces “sweating” (oily circles on the wax surface).
My testing routine:
- Cold throw test: sniff the candle after 24 hours and again after 72 hours.
- Hot throw test: burn for 2 hours after 3–7 days of cure; stand in another room to assess how the scent fills space.
If scent is weak:
- Increase fragrance load by 1–2% for the next batch.
- Try a different fragrance or blend a stronger base/heart note into your recipe.
If scent is overpowering or causes smoking:
- Reduce fragrance load and/or choose a different wick.
Scientific note: the volatility of fragrance components (how easily they vaporize) determines scent throw; lighter molecules travel further but may fade faster. That’s why many commercial fragrances are carefully balanced blends.
Troubleshooting common problems (and what I do)
You won’t have these problems if you follow my advice and copy the blend I revealed above.
- Tunneling — Melt pool doesn’t reach the jar edge.
- Solution: use a slightly larger wick, increase full initial burn time (let the candle burn until the melt pool reaches the edge at first burn), or slightly raise fragrance amount if the oil is suppressing the melt pool.
- Sooty or smoking wick:
- Solution: trim to 6–7 mm, reduce fragrance load, move to a slightly smaller wick size.
- Mushrooming (black buildup on wick):
- Often caused by too much fragrance or certain fragrance components. Reduce fragrance, switch fragrance, or choose a different wick.
- Sweating (oily surface):
- Caused by excess fragrance or poor compatibility. Lower fragrance percentage or test a different wax. (Don’t put more fragrance than what I told you. Maximum 9-10%. Optimal 8%).
- Cracking or frosting (white film on surface in soy wax):
- Mostly cosmetic. Frosting is natural in soy; rapid cooling increases it. Avoid moving candles while cooling; store in a stable temperature.
Again if you follow the steps I mention you will NOT face these problems but it’s good to know, so that you respect the free knowledge and the headaches you avoided by reading this article.
Scent blending — how I create balanced scents
I approach scent like composing a three-note chord: top, heart, and base notes.
- Top notes: light, volatile (citrus, lavender). First you smell them.
- Heart (middle) notes: body of the scent (rose, cinnamon, herbals).
- Base notes: heavy and long-lasting (vanilla, sandalwood).
A simple blending starting point I use:
- 30% top, 50% heart, 20% base.
Example: to create a warm autumn blend:
- Top: orange peel (30%)
- Heart: clove/ cinnamon (50%)
- Base: vanilla/ sandalwood (20%)
Always test at smaller loads first (4–6%) to ensure compatibility, then scale up.
Coloring, labels and presentation
- Use candle dyes (liquid or blocks) specifically meant for wax. Start small — color deepens as wax cools.
- For a crisp finish on jars, polish the glass after curing and before labeling.
- Labeling: include wax type, fragrance name, wick size, fragrance percentage, and a burn safety statement (“Trim wick to 1/4 inch before lighting” etc.) — this is especially important if you plan to sell.
Safety, regulations and environmental notes
A few responsible practices I always follow and recommend:
- Use fragrance oils and dyes designed for candles. Cosmetic or soap oils aren’t always safe for wick combustion.
- Ventilate. Burn tests emit volatiles; ventilate your workspace.
- IFRA & NCA — If you plan to sell, consult the International Fragrance Association (IFRA)’s guidance on safe use levels and restrictions and the National Candle Association (NCA) for industry best practices.
- Label allergen info: Some fragrance materials contain allergens — if you sell, include information to help sensitive customers.
- Recycle wax trimmings and clean spills with absorbent materials — do not pour down a drain.
Science note: Candle emissions and indoor air quality are an area of active research. Complete combustion yields CO₂ and H₂O; incomplete combustion produces soot (carbon) and trace organic compounds. Proper wick selection and trimming reduce incomplete combustion.
Scaling up & small business tips (if you want to sell)
If you’re thinking of selling:
- Start with consistent batches and meticulous records (batch number, temp, times, wick, fragrance lot number).
- Do third-party burn tests or follow ISO candle testing methods (they exist; if selling commercially, you’ll want to validate performance).
- Consider insurance, local labeling laws, and product liability concerns.
- Price to account for time and materials — handmade candles can be premium products, but the labor is real.
My favorite recipes to try (beginner to advanced
Beginner: Clean Citrus Jar (500 g jar)
- Wax: soy+ coco(80%) + 20% parafin at 8% fragrance
- Fragrance: lemon essential / fragrance blend (cold test first). I like vanilla too.
- Wick: cotton flat braid, size 2 (test)
- Pour temp: 60–62 °C
- Cure: 3–5 days
Intermediate: Warm Spice (500 g jar)
- Wax: coconut-soy blend, 8% fragrance
- Fragrance: orange peel 30%, cinnamon 40%, vanilla 30%
- Wick: cotton core wick, size designed for 8 cm diameter jar
- Cure: 7 days for full hot throw
Advanced: Woodwick Crackle Candle
- Wax: soy coco 80% +20% parafin (this is a staple) for wood wicks (manufacturers sell recommended blends)
- Fragrance: vetiver + cedarwood + bergamot
- Wick: wooden, wide slat (pre-treated)
- Note: wood wick recipes require extra testing; follow wood wick manufacturer guidelines.
Frequently asked questions
How long should I wait before burning a homemade candle?
I wait at least 72 hours for soy blends and generally a week for complex blends to properly cure.
How much fragrance oil should I add?
Start at 6–8% fragrance load by weight for soy blends. Increase only after burn testing.
Can I use essential oils?
Yes, but choose essential oils that tolerate heat and test them carefully. Many fragrance oils are engineered for candle safety and consistency.
Why is my candle tunneling?
Most common cause: wick too small or you didn’t let the candle burn long enough for the initial melt pool to reach the jar edge.
Where to learn more — good sources I consult
If you want to read further, these organizations and types of literature were helpful to me and are good next steps:
- National Candle Association (NCA) — practical industry guidance and safety best practices.
- International Fragrance Association (IFRA) — fragrance ingredient safety and recommended use levels.
- Technical literature on combustion and indoor air quality — look in journals such as Chemical Research in Toxicology, Journal of the Air & Waste Management Association, and environmental health publications for research about candle emissions.
- Wax manufacturers (e.g., suppliers that provide technical data sheets) — they publish recommended melt points, fragrance loads, and pour temps for their waxes.
(If you want, I can pull up the latest NCA or IFRA pages and specific technical data sheets for the exact wax brand you plan to use — say the brand name and I’ll fetch their recommended temps and load ranges.)
Final practical checklist
- Workspace ventilated and clean
- Scale, thermometer, pouring pot ready
- Wicks sized & centered in containers
- Wax measured, fragrance weighed (by g)
- Pour at recommended temp, stir for 2–3 mins after adding fragrance
- Let candles cool undisturbed, label batch info
- Cure 3–7 days (or longer for complex blends)
- Trim wick to ~6–7 mm before burning
- Perform a 2-hour burn test for final check
My closing thought (and a tiny dare)
Making candles is equal parts craft and chemistry — that’s what makes it so addictive for me.
It’s forgiving enough to start on a kitchen table, but layered enough that you can spend years tinkering and still find new subtleties.
Happy melting — and remember: the best candle is the one you made and can’t stop sniffing. 🕯️✨
I’m Anastasios Moulios, co-founder of DIY Cozy Living. I enjoy finding creative, practical ways to make small spaces feel warm, stylish, and lived-in — whether it’s a camper, a backyard, or a cozy room inside. I started this blog with Katerina to share real ideas that make home feel a little more personal and a lot more comfortable.
